The installation kit consists of connectors for both the refrigerator and the standard 1/4" compression valve used with most refrigerator installations, tubing, a 1/4" inline shutoff valve, and plug-in elbows.
Remove the current fittings (if any) from the water supply valve behind the refrigerator and install one of the John Guest refrigerator connectors in its place. Install the second refrigerator connector on the water inlet fitting of the refrigerator. (Refrigerator inlets are usually, but not always, on the lower right corner of the back of the refrigerator. You may have to remove a small portion of the felt back cover to gain access.)
Find a good location for the filter. It can be bracket mounted on the wall behind the refrigerator, placed in a cabinet above or beside the refrigerator (1/4" holes can be drilled in walls to provide access), or it can simply lie on the floor behind the refrigerator or be placed on its side on top of the refrigerator. Remember that you will eventually have to replace the filter cartridge, so put it somewhere that's accessible. Be aware, too, that it should be protected and placed in an area where tubing will not crimp or be damaged.
The bracket is included for wall mounting, but you don't have to use it. If wall mounting, be sure to note the proper flow direction indicated by the “In” and “Out” on the cap.
Run tubing provided from the water inlet valve to the “In” port of the filter and from the “Out” port of the filter to the water inlet connection of the refrigerator.
Note: Try to save a small amount of tubing to use as a startup adapter. This will be explained below.
The John Guest connectors work by simply inserting the tubing into the fitting until you feel it “hit bottom.” The tube should be cut squarely to assure a good connection. If you need to remove the tubing, simply push in to the collet (the small piece of the fitting that touches the tube) and simultaneously pull the tube out.
Use (or don't use) the two plug-in elbows as needed on either the connectors or the filter. They not only allow you to make an elbow from a straight fitting if needed, but they swivel as the refrigerator is moved into place to avoid twisting and crimping the tubing.
Insert the valve (at right in the picture above) into the tubing just before the “In” port of the filter. Do this by simply making a good square cut with sharp scissors and inserting the ends of the tubing into the valve. There's no “In” or “Out”; the valve works either way. This provides an easy shutoff for filter changes or (perish the thought) leaks.
Note: If the unit is installed on top of or at the side of the refrigerator, place the valve in a position that will allow you to turn off the water and change the cartridge without pulling the refrigerator out from the wall.
Once the unit is installed, and before the refrigerator has been pushed back to the wall, remove the tubing from the “Out” port of the filter and insert a small length of leftover tubing. Get bucket or pan to catch water.
With the John Guest valve turned off (the handle at right angle to the valve body), open the metal inlet valve at the wall and check for leaks. Water should rush into the tubing but not enter the filter.
Next, slowly open the valve and allow water to enter the filter and pass out of the short drain tube that you have installed in the “Out” port of the filter and into the bucket. The black material issuing from the filter is called “fines,” and it is natural dust from the carbon in the filter that must be rinsed away. Allow the water to run until it's clear, then run a few more quarts into the bucket (emptying the bucket when necessary).
When the filter has been rinsed well, turn off the John Guest valve, reattach the tube that connects to the refrigerator to the “Out” port of the filter, turn the John Guest valve back on and check again for leaks.
The filter is now installed. When you're certain there are no leaks, push the refrigerator back into position, being careful not to crimp or run over the tubing.
(whole house & well units)